![[Back]](img/back-a.gif){kind=small}
![[Home]](img/home-a.gif){kind=small}
![[Members]](img/members-a.gif){kind=small}
![[OUSGG]](img/ousgg-a.gif){kind=small}
![[Photos]](img/photos-a.gif){kind=small}
![[Info]](img/info-a.gif){kind=small}
![[Contacts]](img/contacts-a.gif){kind=small}
![[OUSGG Logo]](img/logo-dark.gif){kind=logo}
During the summer of 1995 the Oxford University Scount and Guide Group spent three and a half weeks in the Vanoise region of the French Alps. We were based in the small town of Pralognan, where we camped.
Two members of the group had not visited the Alps before, so we taught them the necessary techniques in using ice-axes, crampons and rope during the first few day walks. Later in the trip we proressed to longer, easy snow climbs up numerous peaks in the region. At the end of the trip five of us climbed Grande Casse, the largest peak in the region. We also did many day walks, and went rock climbing on the crag next to the campsite on a few occasions.
Overall nothing very difficult was attempted, which made for a very relaxing and enjoyable trip. The size of the group meant that individuals could have rest days whenever they wanted to, and that most of the routes were ascended by at least two different groups.
Alex Goulding
Matthew Johnson
Simon Pargeter
Ian Scott
Matt Wait
Stephen Yeates
John Condliffe
Stephen Fowler
Ian Wright
Listed below are all the routes which happened during the trip, together with who was on each one. Every outing which included a receipient of an Irvine grant has a write-up in this report.
From Pralognan, this hill looks quite like its larger namesake. At 2677m, this seemed a good first walk.
The heat of the early morning caught out Alex when she stopped with heat exhaustion. The remedy also caught her out---a litre and a half of water poured over her.
We carried on up the side looking for a suitable snow field on which to practise ice-axe braking. Before showing Alex and Matthew how to brake, those of us who had been to the Alps before thought that we had better remind ourselves. Arresting the head upwards falls didn't prove to difficult. However when it came to head down on our backs, there was much discussion and tumbling as we tried to get it right. To make matters more embarrassing, Alex and Matthew both picked up the techniques quickly and competently.
At this point Matt reminded us of the weather forecast and the rather ugly sky. We hurried up the rest of the slope to the col, which after an easy scramble up a broad ridge led to the top. With remarkably little faffing we started to descend to the far col. However, despite the ground looking like solid rock, it wasn't very firm and we had to descend two at a time to avoid raining stones down on each other.
This col headed a wide steep snow gully. We walked down carefully until it sloped less. Matthew and Alex watched incredulously as the rest of us glissaded down.
As soon as we got off the snow---3 o'clock-ish---we had lunch. This year pâté on Ryvita-like crisp bread was the standard lunch. Whilst leaving a lot to be desired, this was a vast improvement on the salty biscuits of my last Alps trip.
At this point it started to pour so a quick descent to the valley floor and walk back to camp ended our first walk of the trip.
Ian Scott
A perfect lesson in how to make the best of your situation. This attempt at Pointe de la Réchasse went irreporably wrong early on, but we still managed to complete an interesting walk.
We left the campsite in Pralognan at 4pm aiming to walk to the Col de la Vanoise. Here we would camp and then climb Pointe de la Réchasse the following morning if all went according to plan. And initially it did. We walked up the valley, past the Cascade de la Fraiche to the Circque de l'Arcelin. As we continued from here the mistake was made. To be fair to the navigators, Ian Scott and Steve Yeates, much of the path was covered in snow including, presumably, the junction we missed. Anyway, as we found ourselves getting increasingly far up the wrong side of the valley we realised that something had gone wrong. There were two choices: to turn round and go back and look for the right path (never an attractive option but often the most sensible) or to cut across in the hope of finding the correct path further up the valley. We chose the latter and found the going quite difficult. By the time we reached the path to the col we knew it was getting late and we were unlikely to get there before dark, and so we camped at the first suitable place we found.
The next morning we had to decide what to do. We were still a couple of hours from the Col de la Vanoise so the Pointe de la Réchasse was out of the question. We selected le Moriond, the mountain towering above our impromptu campsite as our target for the day. But first, there was to be more practice in the various techniques used whilst walking on glaciers. Having found an ideal snow patch we were taught, or reminded about such things as building ice axe belays, cutting snow bollards and how to best use crampons. We then ascended le Moriond from the east (it is surrounded by cliffs approached from other directions) which included a short, steep snow climb. We carried full packs to the top in an attempt to make our selves a bit fitter, something we were much in need of. We had been in dense cloud all day but on the top it was beginning to clear and there were some excellent, but often brief, views of the surrounding mountains. As we returned to the campsite the cloud cleared completely and we saw the sun for the first time that day.
Matthew Johnson
For our second day walk we chose the short walk over the Col du Napremont taking in an unnamed bump which just sticks up enough to be called a peak. The walk up through the forest was made more tricky by the remnants of the tree fellers work in the previous week, luckily they weren't working on this Sunday otherwise we may well have had to abandon the walk. Above the forest we came to what will be a scree gully with a zig-zag path for most of the summer, but was covered in snow at this early time of the season. This fairly gently angled snow slope was just steep enough that it was good practise on snow for those new to Alpine climbing.
After lunch on the summit, the descent down a gully on the other side of the hill provided another opportunity to practise descending snow. Unfortunately Matthew slipped and twisted his knee slightly, so had to rest for the next couple of days.
Stephen Yeates
An early afternoon start took us on a pleasant stroll through forest up to les Fontanettes. From here it was a harder climb up the rocky path (make that motorway!!) to les Barmettes refuge. From here the path got narrower, the ground shallower and any lakes totally invisible: Having walked for about two hours by this point we decided that trying to find the causeway across the lake, when both were covered in snow, seemed like a bad idea. After discovering a path above the lake which also went around it, the rest of the trip to the refuge consisted of walking on snow---up and down and flat. The Vanoise Refuge finally loomed and after an hour's relaxation we cooked dinner and then headed for bed.
Four am arrived early (although not that bright!!) and having eaten breakfast and decided which equipment to leave at the refuge to collect later we trudged into the snow and the start of daylight. After an hour and a half's steep climb we donned helmets and harnesses and roped up (crampons and ice axe were in use from the start). Then came the walk across the Col de la Vanoise, the scenery was breathtaking, the sun rose and there was snow as far as the eye could see. The only sound to be heard was feet trapsing through the snow and rope occasionally dragging along the ground. Soon, however it was time to begin the final ascent to the Pointe de la Réchasse. Still roped up, the climb and scramble was slow but steady and the view from the top was incredible. With Grande Casse to one side and the Col de la Vanoise to the other the photo opportunities were limitless. Unfortunately time wasn't and so we soon began our descent, roped up to begin with and then singly after leaving the glacier. Having collected our equipment from the refuge we then started back on the trek home---almost halving the time taken to get there.
Alex Goulding
After being driven to the road head we sat around in two groups enjoying the sun shine whilst each group waited for the others to arrive. Eventually Ian and Matthew walked up from the lower car park to the road head proper and we set off towards the Peclet-Polset refuge. Although we had a fair amount of height to gain, the path was good and reasonably angled which made for a pleasant walk in the late afternoon. Alex adopted the technique of walking up the path backwards to rest her calf muscles, which she claims is very effective even if it gets some strange looks.
Before starting the walk we had located on the map an ideal looking campsite, and before long we reached the point where we could turn off the main path and ascend directly to the chosen location. Conveniently there was a small track, which wasn't marked on the map, up the hill side just where we wanted to go. So we walked up the track and after crossing a snow patch we located a grassy mound which made an ideal campsite.
Alex commenced cooking dinner, but claimed a complete lack of responsibility for what might happen to the spaghetti, whilst Steve and I went route spotting for the following morning. Dinner was duly eaten and the spaghetti was only slightly burnt to the bottom of the pan. Ian and I settled down in our bivvy bags, having elected to give them a trial run, whilst the other three spent the night in a tent.
The curiously chosen getting up time of ten past three was soon upon us, and after spending too long doing the things which need doing at that time of the morning we started the walk as the sky was just starting to become light. After traversing above the snow covered lac Blanc, we climbed a steepish snow slope to reach the glacier. In the light the route up the glacier was obvious, so we roped up and started the trek up the glacier.
After some time and a lot of height gain we arrived at the base of the snow slope up to the Dôme with the weather rather chilly and with little view due to the mist. Only Ian and myself wished to carry on to the Aiguille. So we continued on with the rope, agreeing to meet the others again at the base of the Dôme.
We descended the west side of the Dôme and crossed the snow basin to reach the ridge running up to the Aiguille. The ridge had a covering of soft snow, with the larger rocks poking through. We slowly made our way along the side of the ridge, our legs sinking knee deep into the snow at every step. As we came onto the rocky part of the ridge we shortened the rope and moved together up the rocky scramble to the summit. Since this had taken somewhat longer than expected and the mist was getting worse, we swiftly began the descent back to meet the rest of our group. Coming off the summit I spotted that the other side of the ridge was far easier, more of a walk than a scramble; so we were soon back on the snow. The mist thickened, so that we could see virtually nothing. Conveniently all that we had to do to rendez-vous with the rest of our group was to contour right round the basin, and then left around the Dôme. Then a shout was sufficient for us to meet up again.
Swiftly reroping, we retraced our footprints off the plateau and were below the cloud after a short time. The descent of the glacier was uneventful until the very end, where we encountered what the guide book described as ``variable crevasse complications.'' The snow colouring revealed a few narrow crevasses, with softening snow bridges by this time of day. By moving slowly and carefully over these we just had an odd leg or two disappear deeper into the snow than expected.
Off the glacier at around midday we stopped for a well deserved lunch and rest, before the walk back to the campsite in Pralognan.
Stephen Yeates
Parking the cars at a car park, an appropriate if somewhat obvious place to leave them, we set off up the track sign posted `refuge de la Valette 3h'. Since this was where we wanted to go we were clearly doing quite well. Although we were not sure we really wanted to take 3h to get to the hut, but felt that we could use the 3h path but take less time by using the simple, yet effective ``walking quicker'' method of shortening the time required to get from one place to another. An hour and a half later we had reached the hut and were melting snow as we began cooking our dinner with thoughts of food dancing prevocatively in our minds. Sadly we only had McDougalls dehydrated gunge and pasta which did not quite rate as food. However, what it lacked in quality it made up for in quantity especially since Matt was suffering from an involuntary desire to reverse the swallowing process and so did not feel like eating very much. Saving our pudding of cake for breakfast in a desperate attempt to avoid having to actually eat our breakfast of Alpen, we then drank tea, admired the view, and set our alarm clocks before going to bed. We awoke bright and early at about 4 o'clock the next morning. Matt decided that he was too ill to accompany the rest of us up the hill and so stayed in bed. We were soon heading upwards having decided that that was the best way to reach the top. We paused briefly on the way up the snowfield to tie ourselves together and were soon on the snowfield at the top. We crossed the snowfield, the glare not too bad as the sky was slightly hazy and were soon sitting on the top. We then made our way back down, via Dome des Nants and were soon relaxing at the refuge.
Simon Pargeter
Owing to the weather forecast warning specifically that the glaciers would not be refreezing, we decided to try to find a good mountain to climb that would not entail walking on a glacier. And we found one. The only trouble was that it was right on the southern side of the range of mountains, and would involve quite a long drive. Undeterred, Ian W, John, Matt, Matthew, Simon and Steve F set off at four o'clock for the trip round, which passed uneventfully, bar ending up on the autoroute unnecessarily. We arrived at the campsite just after six, and prepared dinner. The campsite was small, quiet (us and another tent), well equipped with hot water, and free, since no-one came to collect money whilst we were there.
The alarms went off at 3:30am after a marvellous night's sleep, ... not; (due to a minor problem called forgetting to bring the third tent). We soon set off to drive to the Refuge de l'Orgère, where we left the cars. We started walking along the valley in the dark, and it gradually grew light as we climbed the zig-zagging path up the valley. Steve Fowler went striding off, leaving even the human eating-walking machines of Condliffe and Pargeter in his wake. As we climbed higher the path gave way to snow and Dawn appeared, looking rather fetching in an orange-red outfit, above the mountains in front of us. To reach the col involved a longish, but not especially steep snow plod, and we arrived at the col well under the guide book time.
From the col we had good views both over the mountains towards Pralognan and of the ridge we were about to climb. Following the essential Frusli bar and condensed milk stop, we set off up the ridge. This part of the trek was punctuated by people falling into the snow above the knee, and the soft snow was to be a significant factor for the rest of the walk. We continued slowly on our way, traversing the mountainside with its slabby snow, before kicking steps up a very steep section of snow through a cornice onto the ridge up to the Grand Roc. We then scrambled up the snow and loose rock onto the summit of the Grand Roc, where some remained, whilst others attempted to reach the main summit of Pointe de l'Echelle. This attempt was thwarted due to the depth of the soft snow and so we all made our way back down. Going back over the cornice varied from kicking steps to jumping over and ice-axe braking. We returned to the col from where we decided not to climb le Rateau d'Aussois because of the amount of soft snow and so we all made our way back down. This decision taken, we glissaded down the snow and returned to the cars.
Matt Wait
After a well deserved rest day, Steve and I felt the need for a nice day walk. We visited the Market for some fresh bread and a ripe melon for our lunch, left the campsite, and headed straight up the side of the hill. We had decided to take the harder of any choices of paths---and we were rewarded with some fine views of Pralognan.
As we headed up past le Petit Marchet the path disappeared under numerous snow patches, but we made our way up to the Cirque de Petit Marchet. Despite being completely enclosed by rock and being rapidly fed by many waterfalls, the lake in the cirque was very shallow. It must have been drained from below, but there was no indication on the map of where its outlet resurfaced.
We then wasted over an hour trying to find the path down the side of le Petit Marchet to the Cirque du Grand Marchet. Eventually we found enough sections of path to get us down the steep rocky slope. At the bottom we finally had the lunch we had been looking forward to.
As the storm clouds seemed to be building we hurried through the Cirque du Grand Marchet and up to the col. The snow in the next cirque over provided a fast descent. The long drink from the cirque's torrent was very refreshing, enabling us to storm the last two kilometres back to the campsite.
Ian Scott
This walk had previously been done by the other five in two separate groups, one in each direction. We were advised that it was simplest by beginning by walking through the forest to the south of the campsite up to the Cirque du Grand Marchet. Although in cloud for much of the time we caught glimpses of Pralognan and saw close up three waterfalls which could all be seen at a distance from the campsite. We reached the col (2490m), the highest point of the walk, having walked through only a small amount of snow. However, the other side of the col was very different. Much of the path down to le Cirque de l'Arcelin was covered in hard, steep snow and not all of us managed to stay on our feet. The walk back to the campsite was one done many times before and we all took it at our own pace. Having seen an improvement in the weather for much of the descent, we arrived back in thick cloud and pouring rain.
Matthew Johnson
It had been decided the previous evening that a day walk would happen today because of the poor weather forecast. Sure enough, when we got up there was much low cloud in the sky and rain later in the day looked very possible.
Nonetheless we were soon walking up the familiar path toward les Fontanettes, before turning off towards Mont Bochor. A swift climb later and we were on top of Mont Bochor. The mist had lifted to a just above us, but the wind was strengthening. Turning east, we headed toward the Mont Bochor plateau, and as we passed this and reached the ridge beyond we entered the cloud and the full force of the wind hit us.
A brief stop to put on more clothing was required (for all except Steve Fowler, who had omitted to bring any on the walk), then we headed off the ridge to get out of the wind. We continued over rough ground, meeting the path higher up where it also the ridge. We were now sheltered from the wind and the cloud had risen. With the improving weather we were looking forward to the next part of the walk, which the guidebook was rocky with fixed chains.
Although there were indeed some chains in place, they really weren't necessary. We speedily made our way over the rocky section, and contoured over the snow patches to reach the Col de Leschaux. After consuming lunch we decided to take a little detour to take in the Pointe de Leschaux, which just a short climb above us. As we began this ascent I found that slipping over on a snow patch was not such a good idea; since I then trapped a quantity of snow beneath me, which kept me sliding quite well over the grass below the snow patch. Ice-axe braking in the grass helped to slow me down, and a conveniently placed small rock in my path brought me to a standstill. We then dashed up to the pointe, avoiding the remaining snow patches.
After a brief stop on the summit to admire the parts of the view which weren't covered in mist, we headed back to Pralognan at great speed to complete the circular walk. We arrived at the supermarket in Pralognan just in time to shelter under its eaves as a large quantity of rain was dropped on us. The rain refused to stop, so we carefully picked our moment to dash back to the campsite and enquire what was for dinner.
Stephen Yeates
After a delayed breakfast (well it was almost cloudy at 8 o'clock!!) we left the campsite for the Crête du Mont Charvet a walked described as ``like nothing you've ever seen in the Alps before.'' A short spurt along the road took us to the start of a long, yet gentle slope up through a forest to some alpine meadows. We continued our climb, this time zig-zagging up a steeper grassy hill to Rocher de Villeneuve; a peak which, from the approach looked like it had a rocky, but reasonably gentle summit but which, once on top, you could see a very steep cliff on the far side---not a hill to climb in fog or while not paying attention. This completed it was then a stroll back down to the meadows and up onto the crête. The walk along the crête was mainly a case of following the path between rocky outcrops up and down until we came upon an area suitable for lunch. The food completed, we then started to meet the masses of guided groups which seemed to inhabit the area. After much dodging and diving on the path we finally reached the Col de la Grande Pierre, from which we descended over the snow and then back down a long, very gentle track which appearred to be the main road up to la Montagne---a small village halfway up the mountain. Despite the gentleness of the slope, the road approached remarkably fast and we were soon walking back into the campsite, ice creams in hand!!
Alex Goulding
We wandered up the hill at a reasonably fast pace and we were soon on the snow. We headed for what looked like the right way to go and were soon at the breche where we ate our lunch because it was lunchtime and we were hungry. We then wandered down a bit and around to the end of the Crête du Mont Charvet. Most of us then wandered along the crête to the other end, whereupon everyone except me wimped out of going up the Rocher de Villeneuve. This was a very strange little hill; smooth and curvy on one side, sheer and craggy on the other.
Simon Pargeter
A rapid walk-in in late afternoon took us to the Refuge de Péclet-Polset, where we spent a night in the company of The World's Greatest Snorer, a man who always seemed to have one more noise to make before reaching the climax of his snore. We awoke (if we'd ever been asleep) at four and left half an hour later, while it was still fairly dark. The first part of the walk involved contouring around the Lac Blanc and then climbing up to the snout of the glacier, most of which was across snow.
At the edge of the glacier we roped up and put on crampons, of which one of mine was not to last more than forty steps on the glacier before coming off, causing me to go the rest of the way wearing only one crampon, which wasn't too much of a problem. To reach the Dôme de Polset we plodded up the long, but not especially steep glacier, looking out all the while for the mysterious crevasse which Ian S claimed to have put his foot in. We arrived at the Dôme first, and then set out to climb the Aiguille. Having crossed the snow this was an enjoyable rocky scramble to the summit.
We made rapid progress back down the glacier and arrived back at the refuge to have a nice laze-about and a welcome mid-morning cup of tea. A swift stroll back to the cars at the roadhead ended this enjoyable expedition.
Matt Wait
We were driven up the road to Les Prioux. We ascended dripping in sweat up through the wooded valley side.
Just above the tree line the path was, according to map and guide book, supposed to cross a stream. At this point the bridge was four timber beams lying about 10m from the river bank. The snow in the stream gully had more than melted enough to allow construction, but the park rangers hadn't yet done so. We thought about building it ourselves but attempting to move one beam persuaded us otherwise.
We clambered up a much smaller path to where the stream split into many tributaries. Once across, the steep ascent began. Two of us raced ahead---we hadn't been able to book the refuge and we reasoned that the more people we passed on the way up, the less likely it was that there wouldn't be room for us. We booked in immediately we reached the refuge. I'm not exactly sure what the guardienne said to her friends but the word ``complet'' was used.
We waited outside for the others to arrive. Not quite noticing how cold it was, I got a chill. I didn't feel warm again until quite late that evening.
There are those who think that the Sweet and Sour Chicken is the nicest of all the McDougalls dehydrated dinners. Whilst this is no accolade, I do feel that the title belongs to their Chicken Supreme.
Our retiring to bed was interrupted by a bunch of anal-retentives who insisted that they had booked our bunks. After 5 minutes shifting our stuff to the other side of the room, we finally got to sleep.
Up early for the climb, we ate some muesli (or attempted to eat in some people's case). We donned crampons and ice-axes and walked across the snowfield to the Col des Thurges.
A quick 800m of ascent up a step snow slope wasn't quite that simple. About half-way up Alex found she couldn't go on, due to stomach pains. Steve volunteered to go back down with her. We were just about to go on to the glacier proper, and the rest of us roped as we said goodbye to Steve and Alex, and stole all their food. Matthew had never yet led a rope party, so we suggested that he go at the front. Previously I would have described Matthew as someone who never complains that the group was going too slow. However on this occasion he shot up the slope with Steve and I in tow, literally so on occasions.
We reached Dôme de Sonnailles and stopped for a brief rest before starting our plod across the flat Vanoise snowfield. We were one of several parties converging on Dôme de Chasseforêt that day from several huts, and despite our speed, we were one of the last up. It was a beautiful day, and from the top of Chasseforêt we could see for miles---Barre des Ecrins and Mont Blanc were easily distinguishable.
A quick descent to the hut was aided by the thought of cups of tea, and lunch. We returned to Pralognan via Pas de l'Ane, and a very steep snow descent on which all of us slipped and fell several metres.
Back at the campsite, Alex had completely recovered, and was using the time to improve her tan.
Ian Scott
Oh dear, a bit of disorganisation on a Saturday morning and bang goes any sleep I was hoping to get. The Vanoise Hut was full, and being the sensible people that we are we decided to do the walk anyway---from Pralognan. Well I guess it wasn't so bad, I mean I've been up at 2:30am before, however that's normally before sleep not after it!! At 3.10am we were at les Fontanettes---it's a lovely place I only wish I could find the quick way back from it to Pralognan on one of our walks. With torches mounted we began the trek to the refuge. Past les Barmettes Refuge, I've cut a third off my fastest time to this point---nice to have it confirmed that I am indeed getting faster and fitter, I ought to in three and a half weeks. Not surprisingly, with the increase in speed and the massive reduction in snow (we discovered seven picnic tables at the refuge, not three!) the journey seemed to fly by and we left the Vanoise Hut for our main walk at 5:30am (how can your main walk of the day begin after two and a half hours of walking?)
The climb up to the Vanoise Snowfield was improved greatly by the lack of snow---the map said there was a path part of the way up, but I'd never seen it before! Once roped up we plodded onto the snow and headed for the Col du Dard. Upon discovering that Pointe du Dard, unlike Mont Pelve, was covered in snow we decided to head that way first. The slope was reasonably gentle, but by this time we'd been up for five hours and my legs at least were more than a little tired, which made the going rather slow, but the elation upon reaching the top much greater. After the traditional round of photos it was time to descend and head for Mont Pelve---well, tired or not, once you're up there you may as well try both peaks.
Unfortunately the map didn't indicate a clear summit on the ridge which is Mont Pelve, and having examined the possible routes, we decided that the high, steep ridge was probably not the place to aim straight for and so we headed for the eastern end of the ridge. Having reached this quite easily we decided that the scramble looked just slightly beyond our capabilities and that it was best to take any photos from where we were, then head back to the refuge. The descent was, not surprisingly, easier than the ascent and we arrived back at the refuge by eleven o'clock and then waited an hour to eat omelettes and chips. This completed, we made a leisurely trip back to the campsite for a few hours well deserved rest.
Alex Goulding
At 3:30pm the previous day preparations for a leisurely walk up to the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise were almost complete when Ian and John returned from trying to book the refuge at the tourist office with the news that it was full. It was decided that we could do the whole walk from the campsite if we got up early enough and this had the advantage that we didn't need to carry overnight kit (except Ian and John who would be staying at the refuge after the walk ready to attempt Grande Casse on the following day).
In the morning we got up at quarter past three and left the campsite twenty-five minutes later. We drove to les Fontanettes (saving about ten minutes) and set off up to the col. We arrived there around 5:45am, despite Ian and I failing to find the causeway across the Lac des Vaches and having to skirt around it on a steep and icy snow slope.
We left the refuge at six, having disposed of some of our gear, and began the ascent to the Pointe. The path up to the glacier was partly covered in snow, but we covered the distance fairly quickly. We decided that it was unnecessary to rope up and climbed up to the ridge, from which a gently sloping path led to the summit. We arrived at about eight o'clock. The skies around were all clear, and the views were, as the guidebook promised, excellent. [Actually, the guidebook says ``agreeable''---Ed.]
After some discussion, Ian and John decided to return to the refuge, whilst Steve and I were to attempt the nearby Mont Pelve. We descended to the glacier and roped up and took about an hour in reaching the rocky ridge that led to the mountain's summit. However, we couldn't see a path along it, and as it was getting late and the snow was getting softer we decided to give up and return to the refuge.
Once back we met up with the rest of our group who had been doing various walks in the area and bought lunch from the refuge. Those who weren't staying overnight returned to the campsite in Pralognan.
Matthew Johnson
Ian and I were also caught out by the Vanoise refuge being full, and we joined the others in deciding to attempt the route anyway from Pralognan, after all the guide book said that it was less than half an hour's climbing and it was all on rock.
After a swift breakfast we set off toward the refuge, being the only group that morning to walk from the campsite rather than drive to les Fontanettes---the reason was not a desire to walk, but rather that there were no more car spaces! We recognised Matt's car as we passed it and briefly wondered if there was any possibility of us catching them up. But it soon became apparent that with the climbing gear, as well as the equipment to attempt Grande Casse the next day we were walking a lot slower than previously. Indeed we only made it up to the refuge in just under guide book time.
Dumping our sacs on the verandah, we went into the hut to search for the tea bags, which someone in one of the other parties had brought up with them. Unable to locate the tea bags I had to settle for a cup of coffee instead.
Since morning was well upon us we decided that it was about time to start the route. We began heading to the north side of the Lac des Assiettes as the guidbook recomended, before deciding that the snow slope above the lake looked rather steep to traverse without an ice-axe, so we headed off on the longer route around the south side of the lake which avoided the snow. Before long we reached the band of broken grass and rock. We could pick out a path up the grass to the right end of the ridge, and a diagonal path across to the left end of the ridge. Following the guide book we headed to the left. The ground steep and a little loose, so we moved slowly and carefully. The path petered out beneath a rocky slab which led up to the shoulder on the ridge from where the guidebook's description started. Because of the steepness of the ground and the fact that there were some short cliffs below us we decided to pitch climb onto the ridge.
We geared and I started up the climb. From the ground the short distance up to the ridge looked an easy climb, and the rough appearance of the rock suggested plentyful cracks for nuts. As I began to climb the reality was very different---most of the cracks were rounded so that they wouldn't take any gear, and of the few cracks that would, most seemed to consist of solid rock on one side of the crack and a loose block on the other. After lots of searching and a lot of time standing around I eventually found myself on the ridge having placed a few pieces of protection of uncertain robustness. A pitch that, in a less exposed position and with no loose rock, I'm sure I would have happily scrambled up had taken me over an hour, and we hadn't even begun the climb as it appeared in the guidebook.
After making myself safe on the ridge (which did look altogether more sound than the rock below) I turned to Ian to question what to do next. After much hum-ing and ha-ing I realised that my confidence had taken such a battering, that to go on really would not be a good idea, especially considering the objective for the following day. Having made this decision, we made another one. Ian would come up onto the ridge to have a look at the view, which was superb.
The weather could hardly have been better and we could clearly see Pointe de la Rechasse and the edge of the Vanoise snow field to the south. As we turned to the right we could see the Peclet-Polset group, and further to the right again Petit Mont Blanc, Breche de la Portetta and the Crête du Mont Charvet. Next came the valley and rising out of it was Mont Bochor and Grand Bec. The path we had taken up to the Col de Leschaux was clearly visible to the north and looked much steeper and more dramatic than it had actually been. The view east was blocked by the rock of the Aiguille itself.
Having bathed in the view and taken one or two photos we spotted some people coming off the top of the ridge towards us and decided to get out of their way. We quickly climbed down the pitch, having left all the gear in place from the ascent, and were on our way back to the refuge before the other climbers were anywhere near us. On the walk back to the refuge we were left to ponder on the guide book description from west to east, and then saying ``slightly easier in the reverse direction,'' and the fact that the other two parties we saw that day were both going from east to west.
Getting back to the refuge for lunch we spend a pleasant afternoon lazing about in the sun and failing to do the cryptic crossword as preparation for our attempt on Grand Casse the next day.
Stephen Yeates
This was it, the big one. We were at the hut and the mountain was in view. We were going to do Grand Casse the next day.
The next day started as we woke at three o'clock. The rest of the occupants of the room we were sleeping in were also woken to the sound of expletives spoken in an Irish accent by someone called Ian, who would have preferred to remain anonymous. He had tried to pass his foot through the metal sill at the bottom of the door rather than lift it over the top. This was the wrong thing to do! We ate half a chocolate cake each and then swore ... that we would never have such sickly sweet chocolate cake for breakfast again.
Soon we had set off. We knew where we were going, due to having checked the route the previous day by reading the guide book and by watching others make the ascent. There was also a trail of footprints to follow, always an excellent giveaway as regards the route to take. Soon we had reached the foot of the glacier and after untangling Steve Fowler's knotting display of the previous day, we were roped up into a group of three and a group of two. We were soon up a steep slope around the bottom of the glacier and then headed up. As the slope became steeper we arrived at the cracky bit at the top of the glacier. We found a suitably narrow bit where we could get across relatively easily. As we headed straight for the top the steepness began to get a bit over-enthusiastic and Ian was heard to say that if he had wanted to go ice-climbing he'd have gone with Chris Bonnington. It was starting to get rather fun as I kicked steps into the snow as it got a bit steeper. Soon we were standing looking into a big hole with some very tasteful stalagtite type ice decorations, so naturally we decided to walk round this obstruction rather than throw ourselves into it. We could see some other people quite a long way below us but we felt confident that they could not catch us before we reached the top. Soon we were on the flat bit near the top. There before us, thousands of years before us in fact, was the summit ridge. We wandered along it and sat at the top. The drop on either side seemed to be tending towards both the vertical and the long way. Stopping just long enough to take some photos and allow our legs to turn to jelly we left the top again to get away from those big drops and soon met the french army heading for the top. It was good to know that the english had been first to the top that day. We headed back down and before long had reached the bottom. It was definitely the best mountain we had done.
Simon Pargeter
The following is the product of John and Ian on a rainy afternoon after a couple of bottles of beer.
It rained, and rained and poured,
And when John was asleep he snored.
The paths, signposted they were not,
Which proved difficult for young Master Scott.
We camped on the only flat bit of grass,
On which Matthew sat all day on his ass. (But he was ill.)
When about to leave we endured several waits,
Most were caused by Mr Yeates.
It was cold and misty, in fact a real howler,
So we carried the right gear, except Mr Fowler.
Down the valley was a beautiful sight,
Others know it as Ian Wright.
We spread our bread in butter not margy,
Everything else was eaten by Pargy.
The weather made us sit around and get fat,
But that couldn't be said of someone named Matt.
And last but not least comes young Miss Alex,
On whom we were relying for lots and lots of ..... entertainment.
We would like to thank the Irvine fund for the money which was given to us.
![[Top]](img/top.gif){kind=small}